Euchre Strategy R1S1 Eldest Ordering/ Bidding

A euchre forum, which focuses mainly on the advanced strategies and statistics used by experienced players, can be a little overwhelming to a new player.
We are here to help.
Posts: 746
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:57 pm
Location: Florida

Euchre Strategy R1S1 Eldest Ordering/ Bidding

Unread post by Richardb02 » Fri Oct 09, 2020 7:41 pm

This is the 2nd of a series of Basic Euchre Ordering.
R1S1 is shorthand for Round 1, Seat 1
Seat 1 is aka Eldest
Minimums is my term for hands that are close to the “Edge”
Edge is the minimum hand, IMO, that should be ordered
Assumptions: Approximately equal players, Score is NOT being considered
Format: I will use BPS-Basic to explain my thought process. BPS (Bidding Point System) is best thought of as an organized analysis of easily observable factors that all players should consider, for ordering(Bidding). Point means that we assign values from 0.00 to 1.00, incremented by 0.25 (1/4) point, for each observable factor. 1.00 is the value assigned to a Right, it is the only single card guaranteed to take 1 trick. Therefore, it takes 1.25 points, in general, to count on taking 1 trick (with a 95% certainty), after all Euchre is a game of chance.
Basic Euchre ordering strategy includes the concept that you should order if you have 2 near-certain tricks in your hand. You then count on Partner to take the 3rd trick and earn your point! So, if you have 2.50 points in your hand, you should order (in general, remember this section of the forum is for Beginners and Casual players).
Goal: to improve Beginner & Casual Players to a level of Casual Plus. You are reading this information to enjoy Euchre more thoroughly by winning more often, aren’t you?
Suggestions: Beginners, please read the OE (Ohio Euchre) Lessons, for a basic understanding of Euchre strategies. Next, read the BPS-Basic section in this Beginners and Casual section, to understand the BPS approach. Advanced players, please post your more nuanced questions in the General Euchre section.

The 2nd most decisive seat is S1, IMO. You get to lead. So if you have trump power or ace power, in your hand, you control the flow of the card play. You also have the opportunity to pass on biddable, but not quite as powerful hands, and play to euchre the opponents, for 2 points. (You have additional power, if you have a R2S1 Next option. This will be covered in the 5th segment of this series, after the R1 discussions).I will always assume that most Beginner and Casual players bid too passively and miss many opportunities to order. That costs them from winning more often! The reason? They play to avoid being euchred, instead of playing winning Euchre. They fail to grasp that getting euchred 1 out of 3 hands, on edge hands, is winning Euchre!

I see too many B&C players pass on orderable hands, from R1S1! Let’s use BPS analysis:
Up (Card_9-C)
S1 (Card_J-C) (Card_K-C) (Card_10-C) (Card_10-D) (Card_10-S)
0.50 value of R1S1
1.00 value of Jc
0.50 value of Kc
0.25 value of tc
0.50 value of 3 trump with R or L (either Bower)
0.25 value of 1 void
0.00 The (negative) value of the 9c Up Card
3.00 points, exceeding the 2.50 point minimum to order by 0.50 point or 2 factors
So I definitely order this hand. Do you?

Let’s look at an edge hand:
Up (Card_Q-C)
S1 (Card_J-C) (Card_K-C) (Card_A-S) (Card_K-D) (Card_Q-D)

0.50 value of R1S1
1.00 value of Jc
0.50 value of Kc
0.50 Value of As
0.25 value of 1 void
-.25 value of Qc Up vs 9c or Tc minimum value
2.50 points, meeting the 2.50 point minimum to order
So I order, knowing that I will be euchred 1 out of 3 hands!***

***I actually use a 65% success, 35% chance of getting euchred, to define this hand. I round to 65% to simplify the concepts. (I also round because I also eliminate Opponents from getting a 4 point Loner)! This is a break even order. B&C players, order, to get use to getting euchred 1 out of 3 hands. Getting euchred is not the negative. Missing opportunities is the real negative! More advanced players, note that there are no defensive possibilities with the hand that I have illustrated.

Let’s go back to the OP (Opening Post) hand, which had a BPS of 3.00. How much better is it than the 2.50 hand? BPS is based on 1.25 points being equivalent to 1 almost certain (95% probability) of taking a trick. So if your hand contains 3.75 points you have an almost-certain probability of taking 3 tricks. (Note, you may want to consider a loner with 3.75 points! That will be covered later in this series). For this discussion about the probability of winning, 2.50 points give you a 65% opportunity and 3.75 gives you a 95% probability. Simply interpolate to an 83% opportunity to win this hand. You don’t even need math! Simply increase the probability by 6% for each 0.25 points over and above the 2.50 minimum. The 3.00 point example is 65% +6% +6% = 83%. You are already an analyzing genius!

Continuing this thought, 2.75 points = 65%+6%= 71%. 3.25 = 65+6+6+6=83%. Etc.

BPS is powerful, yet it is simple. It is simple enough to use in real games, with practice. I suggest that you practice online, against Bots. I suggest devoting 1/3rd to 1/2 of your playing time to learning and/or practicing.

Please let me know about your experience with this series. Please post any R1S1 questions to this thread.

***(Advanced players, feel free to adjust the points, plus or minus by 0.25, 0.50 or a maximum of 0.75, based on your analysis of advanced factors/observations, not covered by BPS-Basic. BPS-Basic is simplified for B&C players. There are many other factors that are too difficult for B&C players to consider. I will enjoy discussing these factors in the General Euchre Discussions).

Post Reply