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I don't play as much as many on this website plus I don't have a photographic memory. So I took an oversimplified BPS and expanded it with the knowledge that I have gained from this website as well as actual playing experience. It has served me well as a tutorial, checklist and a bidding system as I moved from a rookie to a novice to a confident player against average competition.
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I started with a Bidding System Based on thesprucecrafts.com
1.00 Right
0.75 Left
0.50 AKQ Trump
0.25 T9 Trump (Low Trump)
0.75 Off Suit Aces
-.25 for every other card in Ace suit
0.50 is the value of a Singleton Black Ace
0.25 for each Void Suit if 2 or more Trump
0.75 total for 2 Void Suits, 2 Suited Hand, but Kx min.
2.5 Points indicates a bid [but there is no adjustment for Seat or Score].
The Spruce Crafts simple system ends here
[Don't overthink the system. Keep it simple. The system estimates potential tricks. A Right is worth 1.0 trick It has a 100% chance of taking a trick. Every other value is relative to a Right being worth 1 . The Left has a 75% chance of taking a trick. An A, K or Q of trump has a 50% chance of taking a trick, etc. They are approximations, not precise values. Bidding when you count 2.5 points in your hand is based on 1. Count on your partner for 1 trick. 2. You then need 2 tricks. 3. Euchre is a game of chance. The cards will not always break in your favor. So the oversimplified Spruce Craft system adds a cushion of .5 point to the 2 points if the bidding system could perfectly predict taking 2 tricks.]
[I learned from the ohioeuchre.com tutorials that 100% of the time you need to adjust your bid (and any bidding system) based on your Seat position. Seat 1 has the 1st bid, Seat 4 is the dealer. So even a beginner needs to adjust the BPS for their Seat Position.]
0.00 is the adjustment for Seat 3
[Seat 3 is the toughest seat for a successful bid.].
0.25 is the adjustment for Seat 1
[The logic is that Seat 1 leads 1st, allowing Seat 1 to draw trumps, and that has a value of 0.25 (assuming that you have strength in trumps].
0.50 is the adjustment for Seat 2.
[The logic is that Seat 2 (the Dealer's partner) adds a value of 0.50 to your points because 1. The value of the Up Card going to Dealer is worth 0.25 and the value of your Dealer/ Partner having last play on the 1st trick is worth 0.25].
0.50 is the adjustment for Dealer/ Seat 4.
[The logic is that Seat 4 (the Dealer) adds a value of 0.50 to the dealer's hand. The reasons are: 1. The value of the Dealer getting to play the smallest possible winner on 1st Trick is worth 0.25, and 2. The value of 3 players passing indicates weak hands and that is worth 0.25]
[Note, the value of the Up card and the discard are reflected in the value of the cards, voids and card combinations. These values are not being ignored by the BPS].
[The 2nd most used adjustment is for the 2nd round of bidding].
0.25 Round 2, any Seat
0.75 Round 2, Seat 1, Next Call
0.75 Round 2, Seat 2,Reverse Next Call
0.25 Round 2, Seat 3, Next Call
0.25 Round 2, Seat 4, Reverse Next Call
[Strong combinations are very powerful and deserve additional points].
0.50 for any 3 trump
0.75 for 3 trump and a Bower or 2
1.00 for 3 trump & 2 Boss Trump
1.00 for 4 trump and a Bower or 2
0.50 for:
2 Trump & Singleton Ace
2 Trump with 2 or more Off Suit Aces
0.25 Additions for:
A Bower AND an additional trump
Green Ace
[Likewise, deduct value from your hand in weak situations]:
[Bidding with only 1 trump is difficult]:
-0.50 if you are bidding with only 1 trump
[Seat 1 and 3 have to overcome the value of calling the Up card into the Dealer's hand. If the Up card is 9 or 10 the net value is 0.0(the adjustment for Seat 1 & 3 already accounts for the minimal value of calling a trump card into the dealers hand). QKA hinders a Seat 1 or 3 call a greater amount. A Right hinders a Seat 1 or 3 call an even greater amount].
-0.00 if the Up card is 9T
-0.25 if the Up card is QKA
-0.75 if the Up card is Right
New March 31, 2019
Now add up the points in your hand.
2.25 Points in Seat 1 is enough to call from Seat 1, Round 1 & 2
2.00 Points in Seat 2 is enough to call from Seat 2, Round 1 & 2
2.75 Points in Seat 3 is enough to call from Seat 3, Round 1 & 2
2.00 Points in Seat 4 is enough to call from Seat 4, Round 1 & 2
***** These are the call points for players at the Basic Level. There are definitely more factors to consider. You will find them in BPS - Advanced.
[At this point you can bid your cards relatively confidently. You now need to focus on playing your hand. I literally want you to picture how the hand will play out. The first step is to compare how the actual hand played out to your projection. The 2nd step is to improve your card playing (not changing the BPS). The 3rd step is to adjust visible situations plus or minus 0.25, testing your results and ultimately deciding that the BPS adjustment is profitable or not.]
[Once your understand Partner you can adjust]:
-0.25 for a weak player
+0.25 for a very conservative player (you are bidding for them)
[Let's talk about the fun stuff: Making Alone, Bidding Alone and Euchring Opponents! Note: Euchring Opponents is now in BPS - Advanced]
3.75 Points indicates a probable Alone bid. [A BPS (Bidding Point System) only helps in bidding. You still have to play the hand. DO NOT fall in love with the BPS. Picture, in your mind, how the hand can play out. If you see a path to victory, go for it. 3.75 points indicates that you almost have a lock on taking 3 tricks. Bid Alone. It is great fun. 4 points is almost half the points needed to win the game!]
4.00 Points screams bid Alone. [If you are getting euchred at 4 points, you need to stop focusing on bidding and work on playing the hand.]
[I average 30% success on earning 4 points! It has been as high as 40%! I have calculated a 10% chance of earning 4 points, even if your 5th card is a 9 in the green suit! Bid Alone for fun and profit!!]
Take the score into account:
[Even non-experts need to take the score into account at certain points. This breaks down to 1. your Opponents having 8 or 9 points. In a 10 point game, if they get 1 or 2 more points, they will win. 2. If your opponents have 6 or 7 points, you should consider that they can win with an Alone. 3. If you are behind by 3 or more points, you need to get back into the game. 4. If you are within 1 or 2 points of winning, loosen up a bit].
+0.25 if Opponents have 9 points, loosen up to end the game
-0.25 if Opponents have 8 points, if you are euchred you lose the game
+0.50 if Opponents have 6 or 7 points and it is the second round
+0.25 if the score is at a disadvantage
+0.75 if Donating (Calling/ Biding to protect a lead) is appropriate
+0.25 if you have 9 points (loosen your bid to end the game)
+0.50 if you have 9 points and your opponent has 6 to 9 points
That is the end of the Basics. You can find advanced discussions in "Bidding Point System (BPS) Advanced." But before you go to Advanced, understand the sample hands that follow.
Here are some sample hands to apply the BPS:
EX: Up:






If you are in Seat 1
+0.25 For Seat 1
+1.00 for Right
+0.5 for Qh
+0.75 for As
+0.50 for Ad
+0.25 for 1 void
3.25 Points, exceeds 2.5 points so bid
[See how this hand is analyzed differently in BPS - Advanced.]
EX: Up:






If you are in Seat 2
+0.5 For Seat 2
+1.00 for Right
+0.5 for Qh
+0.75 for As
+0.50 for Ad
+0.25 for 1 void
3.50 Points, exceeds 2.5 points so bid
EX: Up:






If you are in Seat 3
+0.00 For Seat 3
+1.00 for Right
+0.5 for Qh
+0.75 for As
+0.50 for Ad
+0.25 for 1 void
3.00 Points, exceeds 2.75 points so bid
EX: Up:






If you are in Seat 4 (Dealer)
+0.25 For Seat 1
+1.00 for Right
+0.5 for Qh
+0.75 for As
+0.50 for Ad
+0.50 for Kh
+0.25 for 1 void
+0.75 for Strong hand (not described yet)
4.50 Points, exceeds 2.5 points so bid exceeds 3.75 so go Alone
That's a lot to digest. I suggest that you try some sample hands. Post them and I will be glad to work through the system with them. I'm sure everyone will provide me refinements to make this system work even more effectively.